• Does My Blog Look Good In This? - May 2008
  • Moroccan Inspired Pork Shanks
  • Rhubarb Soup with Nicoise Olive Cookies
  • Parsnip Mint Soup
  • Chickpea-Stuffed Delicata Squash
  • Goose Stew
  • Creamy Kimchi Grits with Shredded Brussel Sprouts, Shrimp, and Pork/Beer Sauce
  • Roundup: Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts
  • Menu for May 3, 2008 at Jack
  • Kumquat Marmalade
  • Lemon Sage Sausage and Hungarianish Sausage
  • Jack: my occasional restaurant
  • Shredded Burdock Root
  • Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts
  • Tea Cookies
  • Quick-Pickled Cucumbers with Chili Bean Sauce
  • Red Cabbage with Chestnuts
  • Kumquat Braised Oxtail with Chestnut Stracci
  • Roundup of Food Blog Posts I’ve Enjoyed #13
  • Kumquat Cake
  • Red Bean and Walnut Soup
  • Rakott Palacsinta (Hungarian Pancake Cake)
  • Sunchoke Fish Chowder
  • Seven (7) Things About Me
  • Broiled Yellowtail with Grapefruit Salsa
  • Cocoa Nib Flans with Raw Sugar Sauce
  • Rainbow Cookies
  • Menu for Hope Winners Announced
  • Roasted Rice Cakes with Onions and Red Chili Pepper Sauce
  • Saffron Duck Pot Pie

Parsnip Mint Soup

There’s something about temperature contrasts that really works for me, so I love the hot soup and cold salsa here with every bite. The salsa is also pretty key for me because when it come down to it, I just don’t like smooth soups without any texture to them.

The greenmarkets are full of these big, meaty parsnips lately - take advantage of them!

In other news, there are still a few seats available for the May 3rd dinner at Jack, and we just announced the May 10th menu yesterday.

Archives
2007: Persimmon Mint Salsa
2006: Striped Bass with Ramps

Chickpea-Stuffed Delicata Squash

Well, we survived our opening night at Jack! It was tons of fun, and I hope that everyone outside the kitchen enjoyed it as much as we did. We’re gearing up for our next dinner on May 3rd, and oh, oh, did all the locals see? Apparently ramps finally hit the Union Square greenmarket as of this morning! Spring has sprung. The cherry tree in front of our apartment is in bloom.

That said, here is a winter squash dish that makes even devoted carnivores like me happy and satisfied.

Spring recipes coming soon, I promise. Just as soon as Dave brings home those ramps tonight!

Archives
2007: Turkish Red Lentil Soup with Urfa-Biber Mint Sizzle
2006: Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms

Goose Stew

This is another recipe adapted from A Drizzle of Honey: The Life and Recipes of Spain’s Secret Jews by David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson, a cookbook full of recipes for foods cooked and eaten by Jews and conversos in the Iberian Peninsula during the time of the Inquisition. About a year and a half ago, I posted my adaptation of the Crypto-Jewish Brazilian Yellow Stew from this book, which was absolutely splendid.

This goose stew is a bit harder to put together, but it is tasty as well. In fact, one of the adaptations we made here was adding bulgur to soak up some of the spiced goose stock and add heft to the stew, which I realized later makes it somewhat more similar to the Crypto-Jewish Brazilian Yellow Stew than the cookbook authors intended.

I shared the recipe with my friend Cat, who made a completely different adaptation of it. She used pomegranate seeds, as the recipe originally called for, and didn’t add in the bulgur. She left out the rose hips (as we did) and the ginger (which we left in). And most drastically, she used lamb instead of leftover roast goose. Oh versatile recipe! She and her fiance said that their version was mindblowingly delicious as well.

We made it with goose because we just happened to be roasting a goose anyway, for our belated second (or perhaps fourth, depending on whose count we use) Thanksgiving dinner in March. It’s never too late for an extra Thanksgiving, and it’s always worth making the time for more food, family, love, and gratitude for the time we share with each other. Also, goose.

Although I described A Drizzle of Honey when I posted that last recipe we adapted from it, I feel compelled to repeat the description here:

The recipes in this book were mostly gleaned from testimony denouncing the Jews during the inquisition. Jews were often identified by cultural signs, such as their culinary customs, and servants would be called to testify on the types of food their mistresses would cook. Testimony against them would often allege that they cut the fat and veins from their meat, salted their meat, would not eat pork, or cooked stews on Friday afternoon to eat cold on Saturday. Even cooking meat in olive oil was seen as evidence of secret “Judaizing,” because most Christians preferred to cook their meat in rendered fat, particularly lard.

Jewish women were cited as having myriad creative excuses, such as claiming that they ate cold meat on Saturday because it tasted better cold. Many really did seem to believe that they removed the fat and veins because the meat tasted better that way, or salted the meat in order to better preserve it. We do these things because our mothers did them, and we do not always quite remember why.

Many of the women whose recipes I have here were murdered for cooking these meals. It is a strange feeling, going through this book and reading stories of betrayal and death, each followed by a description of an intriguing dish. Following their recipes feels like a very delicious act of remembrance.

Archives
2007: Baby Lion’s Head Meatballs
2006: Freeform Caramel Prawn Pies

Creamy Kimchi Grits with Shredded Brussel Sprouts, Shrimp, and Pork/Beer Sauce

When Aki and Alex posted about making kimchi broth, I was inspired. It seemed like the perfect excuse to finally make some grits, which I’ve been meaning to do and yet not getting around to for a long time.

These grits are spicy, brilliantly flavored, creamy, meaty from the pork stock, and just an all-around success. I love them to bits, really. The shredded brussel sprouts are crispy, satisfying, and also meaty from bacon grease. And who could complain about shrimp with pork and kimchi? (Only my mother, and she only keeps kosher on the high holy days as is.)

I actually made this a few weeks ago, when Dave was sick with some sort of food poisoning or stomach bug that laid him low for two weeks. Despite his stomach cramps and general misery, he wanted to go back for second helpings. If that’s not a great endorsement, I don’t know what is.

Archives
2007: Raspberry Pomegranate Urfa-Biber Brownies
2006: Carrot Cake

Roundup: Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts

The theme for this month’s Sugar High Friday was Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts, where I asked you to tell me about a dessert you made (or want to make) for somebody else.

What an amazing group of people you are, to have created such a huge collection of sweet gifts for your friends, family, and loved ones all over the world! I’ve enjoyed reading all of your stories and imagining the tastiness of your desserts. Thank you so much for participating and sharing your stories with me here.

Next month’s Sugar High Friday will be hosted by La Petite Boulangette, and the theme is Asian Sweet Invasion.

Menu for May 3, 2008 at Jack

I just wanted to announce that we just posted the menu for our May 3, 2008 dinner at our occasional restaurant, Jack. You can check the Jack website for more information.

Here is the May 3, 2008 menu:

Ramp Udon Soup
bacon consommé, asparagus tempura

Roasted Marrow Bone
radish watercress salad, toast

Pan-Seared Red Snapper
soupy saffron rice, braised leeks with hazelnuts and balsamic vinegar

Moroccan Inspired Pork Shank
apricots, couscous, cucumber salad

Sour Cherry Twist
almond, matcha, cocoa nib, saffron, sage

Click here to make your reservations now.

Kumquat Marmalade

These are my words of wisdom to you: Go make kumquat marmalade while you still can.

Get 1.5 lbs kumquats and slice them up thinly, reserving the seeds. Tie the seeds in a cheesecloth bag. Put the kumquat slices and the bag of seeds together in a non-reactive pot with 4 C water and cover it and let it sit for 24 hours.

The next day, put the pot on the stove and bring the mixture to a boil over moderate heat. Once it boils, reduce the heat to a simmer and let the mixture reduce down for 45 minutes to an hour, or until it has reduced down to about 4 C.

Once that’s done, 4 C sugar goes in with constant stirring, and everything cooks for another 15-20 minutes, or until it hits about 215-220 F and a teaspoon of mixture dropped onto a cold plate gels. Actually, you don’t even need a cold plate - just drip a bit onto a spoon and blow on it until it cools. It’s easy to see it gel that way, even.

Remove the bag of seeds at this point, and the marmalade is done. You can safely seal it in canning jars, freeze it, or keep it in the fridge.

This stuff is seriously simple and sublime. We made a batch using earl grey tea instead of water, too.

Lemon Sage Sausage and Hungarianish Sausage

I don’t have much time to write out these recipes for you today, what with planning for my occasional restaurant, Jack, taking up all of my non-lawyering time right now. We are busy making sure we have all the plates we need, picking up linens, and working out some menus for months down the line. It an incredibly exciting process for us!

So, yes, it takes up a lot of time. As Prince Humperdinck said in the movie version of the immortal S. Morgenstern’s The Princess Bride, “I’ve got my country’s 500th anniversary to plan, my wedding to arrange, my wife to murder and Guilder to frame for it; I’m swamped.”

We are having a soft opening for which no reservations are available this weekend, and I’ll try to take a few photos then. Our real opening night is April 12th, and I’ve been really, really enjoying watching the reservations start to come in.

Life sure isn’t boring.

So, rather than leave you entirely high and dry, here are a few photos and recipes for some sausages I made earlier this winter. Dave’s holiday present to me this year was a meat grinder and a sausage stuffer, and these two sausage batches were made in my first bout of playing with my presents.

If you need some advice on the mechanics of making sausage, you can check out Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman, or just google around.

The basic idea is: cut up your meat and fat into small cubes and marinate with your seasonings in the fridge over night. Put your grinder, bowl, and meat into the freezer until quite cold. Grind into a cold bowl sitting inside a larger bowl filled with ice. Again, get the meat and your stand mixer bowl very cold, then beat the ground meat with cold liquid to bind and emulsify it. Cook sample patties to taste the flavoring until you’re happy. Stuff into casings or use as patties, whichever you prefer.

The recipes below have my notes on both the seasoning proportions that we actually used, and the way we’d make them differently in the future.

Jack: my occasional restaurant

This is my secret project, unveiled.

Dave and I are starting an occasional restaurant named Jack at the Brooklyn Lyceum here in Park Slope, Brooklyn, NYC.

Our first dinner will be on April 12, 2008.

We are open for one seating per night at 7pm on Saturday nights, every other week or so. Our fixed multi-course tasting menu changes each time. Menus and dates are posted in advance on the Jack website, BYOB, and reservations are absolutely required. Our cuisine is eclectic, innovative, and very tasty - well, if you read this blog, you know that part already!

The Brooklyn Lyceum is a miscellaneous arts space in what used to be Public Bath #7, which now houses theatre, opera, a batting cage, gallery space, aerial silk and yoga classes, and more.

It’s this huge, crazy, magnificently insane sort of a building. We are using the upstairs space for the restaurant, which is a giant floor-through room which often houses theatre, open mics, and the batting cage.

We’ll be creating an intimate space in that hugeness by way of theatrical lighting to create the dining area, letting the rest of of that marvelous room just fade away into darkness all around.

Our tasting menus will each have 5 announced courses, but there will generally be a few extras thrown in as well, of course.

Now that we’ve gone live, I’ll probably update here whenever we post a new menu, and after each dinner to let you know how it goes. And of course, I intend to share some of our recipes here after we serve them as well. I won’t let this blog get stagnant, I promise.

So, please go check out Jack: an occasional restaurant, join us for dinner, and spread the news!

Shredded Burdock Root

Yesterday morning, I took and passed the final exam for New York’s food protection certification. Not a difficult hurdle, but it’s nice to have that under my belt at last. If you’re at all interested in ever working in food preparation in New York, I suggest you go out and get the certification now, while it is still free. It has no expiration date! You can take the class online, and then you just have to spend an hour at 160 W. 100th St. to take the test. It will cost $105 in a few months, is why I suggest going for it now.

Yes, I do have a secret project in the works. I’m not quite ready to unveil it, but I’m almost there. Sure makes blogging difficult in the meantime, though!

So, here, let me distract you with tasty tasty burdock. Burdock root tastes like a sort of nutty artichoke, it’s really quite wonderful. Doesn’t look like much in the store, but it’s marvelous once you get it home and play with it.

This was mildly inspired by a cold Korean burdock dish I had as part of the banchan at Moim in Park Slope, and by a number of Japanese burdock (aka gobo) recipes I skimmed over while trying to figure out how to make what I had in mind.

Burdock prepared this way ends up crunchety, tasty, and just a little bit on the sweet and sharp side from the rice vinegar and sugar. It works really well with a number of dishes, but the first time we made it we ate it with a simple roast chicken with shallots that had been roasted in with the pan drippings, basmati rice that had been cooked with more grated burdock in, and fresh pea shoots. It was one of those really sublime quick weekday dinners.

Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts

First things first: Up there, that’s a photo of my entirely-too-cute goddaughter eating freshly made marshmallow straight from the spatula. We’re pretty brave (some might say stupid), sugaring up a 4-year-old like that. But how can you deny a child such a sweet, sweet gift?

I’m thrilled that I get to host Sugar High Friday again this month. Sugar High Friday is a traveling event that was originally created by Jennifer of The Domestic Goddess. Last month, Rachel of Vampituity hosted Sugar High Friday #40: Pies That Evoke Your Dreams (follow the link for the round-up). It’s a hard act to follow, but I’ll try.

The theme for March is: Sugar High Friday #41: Sweet Gifts.

In order to participate, please post the recipe for a dessert you made (or want to make) for someone else. Any sweet will do, as long as you also share the story of why you made (or want to make) that particular dessert for that particular person! The emphasis here is on the story more than the dessert, but I’m sure you make your best desserts when they’re meant to be gifts (unless you intentionally made a gross dessert as a prank gift, which would also count for this theme).

Now, the rules:

You must post your entry and email me to notify me of it by Monday, March 24, 2008 . I don’t really have the time to scour the internet searching for your entries, so if you don’t send me an email with the info listed below, it may not be included in the round-up. It’s just a matter of practicality, really.

Don’t forget to mention and link to this announcement in your post and if you can, also include a link to the round-up once it is up.

Send an email with the following information to habeasbrulee-AT-gmail-DOT-com:
Your name
Your blog’s name
Your blog’s URL (homepage)
The title of your entry
Your entry’s permalink (individual URL)
A 200×200 image (please give the file the same name as your blog)

If you don’t have a blog, you can post your write-up and picture (if any) on any website, or in the comments to this post, and I will still include it in the round-up.

The round-up will be posted on Friday, March 28, 2008.

Tea Cookies

A friend and I recently went to check out Amai Tea & Bake House, because we like having tea together and I am big on supporting food bloggers in their endeavors (Amai is run by the blogger behind Lovescool).

We really enjoyed the tea sweets there, and when I got home I found Amai’s recipe for matcha (green tea) cookies.

Green tea is nice and all, but in my pantry I have some wonderful oolongs, not to mention my coconut vanilla tea, herbal masala chai, strawberry rose tea, homemade peach mace vanilla tea, and more. I wanted to create a variety of tea cookies with all of my wonderful teas!

So I ground up some oolong tea to a powder in a clean coffee grinder, and gave it a go.

Perfect.

The tea flavor is subtle but unmistakably present. The cookies have the slight crumbliness of butter cookies, but are more tender than most, and are particularly satisfying when eaten with a sip of tea between each bite.

I posted this to Gothamist for Valentine’s Day, and I’m reposting it here to make another confession: Dave and I have actually started wedding planning. If you’ve been reading this blog long enough, you may remember how he proposed last April. Since then, New York courts have begun recognizing out-of-state same-sex marriages. We talked to a lot of people and between ourselves about it and came to the decision that that, especially right after a couple of women we know decided to get married, was good enough for us.

We’re thinking August 2009, so we have plenty of time to plan.

Funny how that feels like such a short schedule!

Quick-Pickled Cucumbers with Chili Bean Sauce

I’ve been focusing so much on heavy, rich winter dishes lately, it’s really time to switch gears and try something different. Something clean and fresh and light to clear the palate. So instead of a braise, why not a try a nice quick pickle to go with a simple dinner? Crunchy, salty, spicy, and satisfying, these quick pickled cucumbers add a nice kick to most any meal.

I grew up hating pickles, by which I meant those typically pickled cucumbers they give you with your sandwich at the deli. I still won’t eat them. Seems a bit strange, since I love both cucumbers and vinegar. But what I’ve slowly learned is that I do like other sorts of pickled fruits and vegetables - I started with a love of pickled ginger, and most recently I was utterly wowed by a jar of homemade pickled garlic seeds that a friend gave to me.

Quick pickles are a way of feeding that urge with a lighter touch, and without having to go to all the trouble of setting up the large pot of boiling water for home canning. It’s more like cucumber salad, really, which I also love. (In fact, I’d be hard pressed to tell you the difference between quick-pickled cucumbers and cucumber salad. Perhaps it has to do with the intensity of flavor? The way we categorize food in our minds is fascinating in itself.)

Around this time last year, we were making: Chicken and Rice, Curry Banana, Roots and Rhizomes Stew

Red Cabbage with Chestnuts

Here is an absolutely luscious, rich winter dish. I started off working with an Alice Waters recipe, but then I was inspired by Michael Ruhlman’s love of veal stock to meat things up a bit to great effect.

Way I see it, he’s absolutely wrong in declaring veal stock to be “a selfless stock” - it does have a flavor of its own, and only seems neutral if it’s part of the baseline flavor profile of your culture. Maybe Ruhlman can’t taste veal stock, but I can. Though to be fair, I barely taste garlic and onions at this point because they are so ubiquitous in our cooking.

That said, Ruhlman was right about veal stock being a tasty tool to have in your arsenal. It elevated the cabbage and chestnuts here into something magnificent.

Around this time last year, we were making: Pink Grapefruit Ginger Cream Cookies

Kumquat Braised Oxtail with Chestnut Stracci

This is one of our great successes this winter.

Oxtail braised with sweet spices, tons of kumquats, low and slow until the sauce is richly fragrant, smooth and thick. The meat is shredded off the bone into the strained sauce with balsamic vinegar stirred in for added complexity, and served with homemade chestnut flour pasta, which adds some toothsome sweetness to balance the intense meatiness of the oxtail.

The almost floral fragrance of the kumquats elevates this dish into something extraordinary. It reminds me of the way preserved lemon adds a sublime quality to Moroccan tagines, though it was actually thrown together from what we happened to notice while shopping at the food co-op, not inspired by any particular recipe or cuisine.

The chestnut stracci recipe is more traditionally based, adapted from an Italian recipe for irregular scraps of pasta made with chestnut flour and eggs. I’m told that “stracci” means “rags,” which is what those pasta scraps are meant to look like. I threw them together after reading through a few recipes and finding the proportions that ultimately worked best for me.

Go on, give this a try before kumquats are gone for the year!

Roundup of Food Blog Posts I’ve Enjoyed #13

Yes, February is a bit late for me to be posting Christmas photos. But I have a pile of links to share with you that I’ve been collecting since last October or so, and I never did share any Christmas photos with you at all.

I’m a typical agnostic cultural Jew in Brooklyn, raised by a conservative Jewish family. Pesach is my favorite holiday of the year, because I love the seders. But now that I’m with Dave, I’ve had to broaden my horizons a bit. Now, when winter comes, we have Channukah with my family, another Channukah with his mother, and Christmas with his father.

This winter, we invited my 4 year old goddaughter and her mother to join us for Christmas, which I must say is the best idea we’ve had in ages. I spent a lot of time taking photos of her, which made it extra funny when it turned out that her mama Santa had left a Fisher Price digital camera under the tree for her.

That’s her in the photo, of course. Isn’t she beautiful? I don’t see her nearly often enough, but I look forward to it and love her to bits whenever I can. I should be able to see her this month, and I can’t wait! And I think Dave enjoys having her around even more than I do. They play games like Duck Tag (which is what you call it when you play tag on the way to the duck pond) and he teaches her how to type. It is cute beyond words.

Anyways, enough about my favorite small girl in all the world. Onto the links to tasty food blog posts!

Dorie Greenspan’s Slippery-Slidey Cinnamon-Espresso Cup Custard sounds like a mouthful in the best possible way.

Helen from Tartelette made a few marvelous sounding treats: Meyer Lemon Cake Roll and
Pumpkin Praline Tartelettes with Butter Pecan Ice Cream.

Banana Bread Ice Cream from katesmash is high on my to-try list.

Deb from Smitten Kitchen always has a few interesting ideas up her sleeves. Most recently, I’ve bookmarked her Butternut Squash and Caramelized Onion Galette, Chocolate Chip Sour Cream Cake (cubes of colossal cheer!), and Black Bean Pumpkin Soup.

Aki and Alex rarely post recipes, but when they do I am always interested. Here is their White Chocolate and Yogurt Ice Cream.

Who could say no to Chai Oatmeal Cookies?

Pim made gorgeous jars of Tomato Confit: oven-dried tomato in olive oil. Not to mention her quince caramels!

My quince-obsessed partner would probably also love Mercedes’s Quince Ice Cream with Almond Praline.

I am completely inspired by Khymos’s edible cocktails with gelatin - they are gorgeous!

Have you ever wondered how to make those little chocolate bottles filled with liquor? Chadzilla explains how yo make vodka pills, the basic building block for creating liquor-filled chocolates of your own.

For a tasty snack, I’d like to try the Carrot and Rosemary Miniature Scones from Chocolate & Zucchini.

These simple Whole Wheat Squash Ravioli With Sage Butter from Cookthink just fill me with quiet glee, as do their radishes with prosciutto.

From Obachan’s Kitchen, I found Ichigo Daifuku - Japanese sweets made of strawberry and sweet bean paste in rice cake. They remind me of the sakura mochi I eat at the Cherry Blossom Festival every year.

Bea can make even a simple egg look luscious and refined, in her Eggs en cocotte with salmon, leek and its mouillettes. And for a sweeter of eggs, she also made these wintry gorgeous Vanilla Cardamom Snow Eggs, which are her favorite treat.

I only discovered walnut liquor very recently, at a tasting near Union Square. Right afterwards, of course, I stumbled across this Vin de Noix recipe at Lucy’s Kitchen Notebook. I am awfully tempted to gather unripe black walnuts in Prospect Park next summer to create a batch of this!

Evil Jungle Prince made Chinese shrimp dumplings even more delicious by browning them in a pan, making pan fried har gow.

From Elise at Simply Recipes, I’d love to try her Kiwi Salsa and her Brandied Cranberry, White Chocolate Chip Cookies.

Here’s a wonderfully creative (and garlicky) idea - Roasted Beets with Celery Root Skordalia!

I am in love with Kuidaore’s Vacherin Mont Blanc - a sublime tower of delicate meringue layered with vanilla and rum flavored chestnut puree, it looks like something that should be served in one of the grand old dessert cafes in Hungary.

Speaking of desserts that would make my mother’s palate rejoice, Fanny from Foodbeam made a to-die-for Mousse aux châtaignes (chestnut mousse).

I am completely intrigued by Kitchen Wench’s Ho-dduk (Korean yeast-risen pancakes with sweet nut filling). They look like a great winter snack, and mostly I want to eat them while walking to the train in the morning on my way into the office.

David Lebovitz’s ice cream needs no introduction. How about his Chocolate and Banana Ice Cream, which he says is the easiest recipe of them all?

Lucullian Delights always has the freshest, prettiest photos. In particular, the Braised Leeks with Hazelnuts and Balsamic Vinegar caught my eye as something I’d love to make.

As I was saying, I grew up in a typically Ashkenazi Brooklyn Jewish family, but I’d love to make Barbara’s Sephardic Matzo Ball Soup for my parents and brothers to see how it holds up. Nothing beats Mom’s chicken soup, of course, but there’s no harm in adding to our repertoire. I also am dying to try her highly caffeinated BuzzBarz!

From the Passionate Cook, another recipe to tantalize my leek obsession, Leek, Gruyère & Hazelnut Quiche.

I bought My Bombay Kitchen after seeing this recipe for One Hundred Almond Curry up at the Traveler’s Lunchbox, and I love it dearly after trying out a few more of the Parsi recipes contained therein.

And from Milk and Cookies, the most beautiful grapefruit creation of the year for me, Grapefruit Soufflé.

This Apricot Chestnut Tarte Tatin from Figs, Bay, & Wine combines some of my absolute favorite flavors in a way that never occurred to me - I can’t wait for apricots to come back into season so I can make it myself!

Vanessa made Winter Sage Pesto with sage and spinach, which I really enjoyed when I played around with her recipe at home.

I always get excited when I come across Hungarian recipes, like this Raspberry Hungarian Pastry I found on The Kitchn.

I’m not sure I can think of anything more delicious sounding than these Bacon Chocolate Chip Cookies with Maple Cinnamon Glaze.

And speaking of Hungarians, I am so pleased to have found Toadberry, a blog full of Hungarian treats, among other things. It caught my eye first with the recipe for Gerbeaud Slice, a signature pastry from Gerbeaud Cafe in Budapest. I remember sitting in Gerbeaud Cafe late one night with Dave a few summers ago, drinking hot chocolate and ice wine and eating wonderful desserts. Seeing this recipe brings back that memory for me, and I look forward to trying it out.

Around this time last year, we were making: Sweet and Sour Lotus Root; Monkey Bread

Kumquat Cake

This cake is obscenely rich; it is more of a custard or pudding than a cake, almost. It is so moist that it may seem undercooked until you remember just how many eggs and pureed kumquats you poured into that wet batter to make it.

It started out as a recipe for orange cake, but I prefer kumquats, and I suspect it would work just fine with whatever citrus you happen to prefer.

Dave thinks it’s a bit too sweet, but that’s why I suggest pairing it with sour cream (or perhaps sour cream ice cream) - the tartness balances everything out perfectly.

I would serve small squares of this as part of the mignardise at the end of a decadent meal.

Red Bean and Walnut Soup

This soup is of Georgian origin, where pairing red beans and walnuts appears to be some sort of national pastime. It sure beats baseball. This is a rustic soup, lusciously creamy and actually good for you, too. (Unless you overload on the olive oil, that is. Since I don’t specify quantities there, on your own head be it.)

I definitely plan to make this again. Next time, however, I think I will use it in a shallow bowl or curved plate as the bottom saucy layer of a plated entree, instead of serving it as a soup on its own. It was wonderful as a soup, but I think it would also shine as part of a composed dish.

Every recipe is a building block. Every recipe is not just a meal, but also a component and a tool.

How would you suggest using this as part of a composed dish?

Around this time last year, we were making: Sweet and Sour Lotus Root

Rakott Palacsinta (Hungarian Pancake Cake)

First things first. I would really appreciate it if you would go vote for me in Culinate’s Death By Chocolate contest.

Also, I heard today is crepe day, so we made a Hungarian crepe cake!

My grandmother says that she used to make this with a different filling in each layer - jam, ground walnuts, chocolate cream, cottage cheese, poppy seeds, whatever she was in the mood for. When I told her that I made mine with just a walnut filling and chocolate on top, she huffed a bit, then said, “It’s okay, I make it with walnuts sometimes too.”

If you trust Ima more than you trust me (probably wise, when we’re talking about Hungarian food), you should make a smaller portion of the walnut filling I describe below, and use layers of jam, chocolate, and cottage cheese as well as walnut layers between the pancakes.

But if you trust me, well, believe that my way of making Rakott Palacsinta (which Ima tells me translates to ‘Raising Palacsinta’) is very delicious, too.

Sunchoke Fish Chowder

Yes, that’s bacon sprinkled on top of an Arabic spiced New England fish chowder pictured in front of my tallis bag, which features a beautiful watercolor painting of Jerusalem. Sacrelicious, maybe, but it all makes sense - this chowder is made with Jerusalem artichokes instead of potatoes, after all.

Sunchokes (a/k/a Jerusalem artichokes) are subtly magnificent root vegetables whose creamy flavor does wonders in transforming a simple fish chowder into something special. I also added za’atar (our version is a blend of thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, and sumac) to this chowder instead of the more traditional thyme, which added an extra dimension of flavor.

I could live off of chowder perfectly happily for weeks, myself. As a kid, I sometimes did. So it’s nice to mix things up and make the ordinary extraordinary again.

Please don’t be scared away because the recipe calls for fish stock. Your fishmonger will almost certainly give you fish frames (bones and perhaps heads) for free, and unlike with meat, you won’t have to simmer your fish bones for hours. Twenty minutes of simmering, ten minutes of steeping off the heat, and you’re done.

We used to freeze fish stock in case of chowder, but it’s so quick to make (and space is at such a premium in our freezer) that we stopped bothering. Now, we just simmer up a batch each time we need it.

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